DESTINATION : NIAGARA FALLS
AND EXPLORING NIAGARA ON THE LAKE
A CANADIAN ADVENTURE
For many people a visit to the iconic Niagara Falls is a destination on the bucket list.
These famous waterfalls are among the most famous in the World and there’s something about seeing a natural wonder with your own eyes.
So in 2017, when I was planning a trip to Toronto, Canada, I realised I had another opportunity.
Adding Niagara Falls as a destination on my itinerary was definitely possible. They are both in the Canadian state of Ontario. They just sit on opposite sides of Lake Ontario.
Too good a chance to miss!
My Canadian adventure became a dual destination trip to Toronto and Niagara Falls.
GETTING THERE
My exploits in Toronto will wait for another post.
I created an itinerary with 3 nights staying in Niagara Falls with a few days in Toronto wrapped around either side.
That made flights easy, as I could get direct flights from Manchester, England to Toronto Pearson International airport.
I’m not one for driving abroad, although car hire would have been a possibility for the Niagara leg of the trip.
However I prefer to rely on public transport when I’m abroad.
As it happened I got to try another icon.
Greyhound Buses
I associate Greyhound buses with American movies. People in films often seem to use them to travel across North America.
Now I was going to ride one. Its just a bus, but still nice to say I’ve done it.
I booked online, from home before travelling to Canada, on the 11.45am bus from Toronto to Niagara Falls.
Being unsure how it worked I turned up at the bus station an hour early. Good job as the bus actually departed at 11.15am!!
That aside it was really easy. You put your case on the bus, showed your ticket and boarded. Nothing to it.
The journey was meant to take 2 hours, though it felt much quicker.
Along the route
The bus route followed what seemed to be more of a motorway. Not very scenic.
We passed through some small towns. A lot of the places seemed quite industrial.
The route took us around one of the Great Lakes, Lake Ontario.
I had seen this from the Toronto side, but now was almost surprised to see the Toronto skyline in the distance on the opposite side of this corner of the Lake.
If you are going to travel you have to factor in travel days. I try to make them part of my holiday where I can.
This turned out to be an efficient and quite relaxing journey in both directions.
THE NIAGARA FALLS
On the taxi journey from the bus station to my hotel we rode along the road that overlooks the Niagara Falls.
I caught of glimpse of mist, but deliberately didn’t look.
I didn’t want my first view of the Niagara Falls to be from the back of a taxi.
The fact that they were so immediately visible did worry me though. I had two and a half days in Niagara Falls. What if this was a “pass through” rather than a “go to” destination?
As it turned out I needn’t have worried, but I’m jumping ahead.
The American Falls
Later that afternoon, having dropped off my bags at the hotel, I walked back down to the road by the Falls.
You hear the noise of the waterfalls well before you see them.
As I’ve said this is a Canadian adventure, but the Niagara River which runs from Lake Eerie (another of the Great Lakes) to Lake Ontario, over the falls, is also the boundary between Canada and the USA.
So looking across the water to the flat wall of water that is the American Falls, I was also looking at New York state in the United States of America.
The Rainbow Bridge joins the two countries and it is possible to cross from one to the other on foot.
It turned out I didn’t really have enough time for that. Two days it seems was not enough!
The Horseshoe Falls
I was quite surprised how much smaller the waterfalls were than I had imagined. Especially from this viewpoint overlooking them from the road above. Not so much small in width, but certainly in height.
Turning to my right the more famous curve of the Horseshoe Falls was actually quite easy to see. They are closer together than I thought too.
I had started my visit almost directly opposite the American Falls, and then walked along the road the get a close up view of the Horseshoe Falls.
Its actually quite a flat walk, set high above the water, so this way you are always looking down on the spectacle.
The view is well worth seeing, but its the constant roar of the water that is something to be experienced.
Having taken plenty of photos I popped into a gift shop.
By the time I came out a rainbow had appeared, growing out of the Horseshoe Falls. Unexpectedly beautiful to see.
I had to take all of my photos again, complete with rainbow!
Hard to put into words
Its hard to put into words the experience of seeing the Niagara Falls, so I’ve made a destination video too!
If you have YouTube click on this link, or search for Gary Travels… to the Niagara Falls
Its the best way for me to share both the sights and a taste of the awesome noise of the Falls.
That said if you really want the full experience you have to go and see them in real life.
I would most certainly recommend a trip to Niagara Falls, plus there’s much more to this destination than waterfalls.
HOTEL STAY
For this trip I decided I would splash out on my hotel. Well, Niagara Falls could be a once in a lifetime destination.
I stayed at the Doubletree Fallsview Resort and Spa hotel.
In particular I opted for a room with a view of the falls and was rewarded with a room on the 19th and top floor.
My large room had a direct view of the American Falls, caught the edge of the Horseshoe Falls and looked out onto the Rainbow Bridge and Lake Eerie.
Niagara Falls, USA was clear across the river and I had a mixture of views of the town of Niagara Falls, Canada below me.
A luxury view I could perhaps have saved money on, but this was a worthwhile treat.
A TWO DAY ADVENTURE PASS
As soon as I checked in, the hotel was trying to sell me a two day pass to see the sights.
That filled me with confidence that I had been right to book two full days here.
It was a lot of information all at once, but next day, having done a bit of reading to see what was included, I did opt for a pass.
I chose the basic version, or Classic Adventure Pass. This included the Journey Behind the Falls and the White Water Walk, both of which I knew I wanted to see.
Also included was an interactive adventure called Niagara’s Fury, which told the history of the formation of the Niagara Falls. I saved this until last as it was more of a bonus for me.
With hindsight I think it might have been more useful to see first, to learn some history. By the time I watched it I had seen the real falls, so while it was entertaining it was nothing special in comparison.
The Adventure Pass also gave you two days travel on local bus services to get around.
This one was perfect for me. There are a couple of other options which include more attractions too. Worth considering if you are staying for longer.
White Water Walk
I started downriver at the White Water Walk along the rapids of the Niagara River.
There are six classes of rapids and these are mainly class six, the worst ones.
They are equally loud.
For me I enjoyed a film location moment as I remembered a scene from the 1981 film Superman II. The rapids play a pivotal role as Lois Lane tries to reveal Clark Kent’s secret identity.
Actually another scene from this film takes place at Table Rock, overlooking the Horseshoe Falls.
So if you are a film fan and enjoy spotting movie locations then this is worth checking out.
Journey Behind the Falls
I caught the bus back upriver using my pass.
Later I made my way back the the Horseshoe Falls, for an up close view from a different angle.
There was a viewing platform set to the side of the base of the Falls for an amazing view of the waterfall.
Then you were able to walk almost a third of the way behind the Horseshoe Falls in tunnels which they first began excavating in 1889.
Another unique way to view the Niagara Falls.
TOP TIP: Research the various Adventure Pass options before you go. It will help you plan to make the most of your days in Niagara Falls.
HORNBLOWER CRUISES
If Niagara Falls has made it as a destination on your list, then sailing into the spray of them is a must.
The “Maid of the Mist” boats are icons in their own right.
However these now only sail from the US side of Niagara Falls.
On the Canadian side the cruise is operated by Hornblower Cruises.
This is not included in the adventure pass, but is really worth paying for.
Both cruise lines follow the same route after leaving their side of the river.
Into the Falls
Firstly you are given a lovely red plastic poncho. It makes a show of keeping you dry, but to be honest you are going to get wet!
As I’ve said I had looked down on the Niagara Falls almost from the moment I reached my destination.
Now it was time to look up.
We sailed past the base of the American Falls. Curious to see from this angle.
However the real draw is a sail upriver to the base of the Horseshoe Falls.
Here the curve of the falls amplifies the spray into a huge cloud of mist.
All around you is the thunder of the water coming down.
I was capturing photos and video, but I made a point of stopping to just look and listen and feel it all too.
This fabulous adventure was over all too quickly. Something I would do again if I ever went back.
NIAGARA ON THE LAKE
I’d heard Niagara on the Lake was a nice town. However it turned out to be a complete surprise.
For day two I had a number of options, but used my pass and caught the Green Line bus from the stop overlooking the American Falls out to the Butterfly conservatory.
Here were views of the gorge and gardens to have a wander around. I hadn’t come to see the butterflies, though that’s an option too.
This was also the interchange for the Niagara on the Lake shuttle bus.
Its a separate bus route, not included in the adventure pass. You can buy tickets at the stop here.
Wine
I discovered Niagara was famous for wines and we passed several wineries along the route, with their rows of grapevines.
I’m not exactly a wine connoisseur, but I like to try the local wines when I visit a place, especially if it has a good reputation.
At a bar and restaurant overlooking the Horseshoe Falls I had enjoyed Niagara’s sauvignon blanc, complete with waterfall views.
In the town of Niagara on the Lake I opted for local pinot grigio with a panini for lunch.
Very nice indeed.
In fact, when it came to home time, I bought a couple of bottles of Niagara Ice Wine as souvenirs. A very sweet dessert wine made from the juice of frozen grapes. Lovely!
Lake Ontario
Niagara on the Lake is so called because it does sit on Lake Ontario.
Its a small town with one, long, historic style shopping street.
Very pretty and scenic.
After lunch I strolled around town and down to the lake.
Once again the Toronto skyline was visible in the distance.
Much closer, across the mouth of the Niagara River was the American Fort Niagara.
Now a state park, it once played a role in the War of 1812 here on the Niagara River.
I was about to have a history lesson on the British and Canadian side of this story.
The War of 1812
The War of 1812 actually took place between 1812 and 1815, between the British and Americans.
The two forces allied with various tribes of indigenous peoples of North America, who fought on both sides.
Its not a war I hear much about at home, but it has regularly cropped up on my visits to the USA.
This was the war in which the British burned down the White House, as I had learned on my 2013 visit to Washington DC.
And in 2020 I visited the Chalmette battlefield, site of the Battle of New Orleans in 1815 at the very end of the war. The British lost that one.
Depending on what I have read, I generally get the impression that battles were won on lost on both sides and the overall outcome was almost a draw. If the outcome of a war could be distilled into such a simple word.
However with their allies, the First Peoples of Canada, the vastly outnumbered British forces ultimately held off the Americans at Niagara, allowing the Canada we know today to exist.
The story was not so good for the First People’s of Canada, who did not win the homeland they had been promised.
Fort George
I had no idea Fort George even existed until the shuttle bus stopped there to drop us off.
With one eye on the timetable for the last bus back to Niagara Falls I decided I had a spare hour or so to look around this fortress.
Fort George was the site of the British headquarters in the War of 1812 in this region.
It is now called the Fort George National Historic site and includes reconstructions of the walls and buildings of the fort.
Uniformed “soldiers” add to the atmosphere and I saw one demonstrate musket fire.
Some of the buildings tell the story of the War of 1812, the officers, soldiers and local participants.
Others offer reconstructions of life in the fort at the time.
I could easily have spent longer here, but the last bus was calling.
BRIGHT LIGHTS OF NIAGARA FALLS
In the evening the lights of Niagara Falls turned on, as glitzy a destination as any in North America.
The novelty here being that the waterfalls light up too.
So I headed back down to the river at night to watch the red, white and blue as the Niagara Falls changed colour. Clouds of mist and the roar of the water ever present at the Horseshoe Falls.
In town there are casinos, or the Clifton Hill amusements street.
My nights were also entertaining in Niagara Falls.
GARY TRAVELS… TO NIAGARA FALLS
With the benefit of hindsight I could easily have filled another day in Niagara Falls, but maybe its best to leave a destination while you are still wanting more!
If I’ve left you wanting more don’t forget to head over to YouTube and watch the video that accompanies this blog post.
