TWO DAYS IN NEW ORLEANS

LAST MINUTE PLANS

My destination was New Orleans.

It was January 2020 and I was in the process of planning a big adventure to Australia and New Zealand. The only slight hitch was that the Australian bush was on fire.

Whilst I had plans there in February, I had the flexibility to move other things around. Rather than avoiding places I hoped to see, I postponed everything for a few weeks, to quite literally let it cool down.

That left me with January as a free month, at the height of my “year off” travelling.

Well I wasn’t going to waste that opportunity. But what to do? Well as it happened a late cruise deal presented itself, calling at Key West and the Bahamas, and sailing from New Orleans. I hadn’t been to any of those places. It was booked!

If you read my blog on Rome, you will know that I’ve learned to fly in early and see a bit of my departure port. That’s exactly what I was going to do now.

This is not the story of a cruise, but of the two days before, exploring the city of New Orleans.

GEOGRAPHY

United States

New Orleans sits on the coast of the state of Louisiana, in the south of the United States of America.

The locals call it “NOLA” – New Orleans, LA.

I like the USA. My first visit was back in 2008, and I have visited quite a few times since. However this was my first trip to Louisiana, which became the 10^th US state I had visited. The more of my posts you read, the more you will realise I like a good list of travel stats!

It is the largest city in Louisiana A port city located on America’s second longest river, the Mississippi. My cruise would take me down this river and out into the Gulf of Mexico.

Directions

I was interested to learn that to describe a destination in New Orleans they don’t follow the usual compass points. As the streets gradually curve in line with the River, walking East will eventually turn you North.

Instead they have their own compass. Lakeside is North, Riverside is South, whilst Upriver (or Uptown) claims West and Downriver (Downtown) is East.

Hurricanes

Louisiana’s position on the Gulf Coast of America puts it in the path of hurricanes.

The most notorious was Hurricane Katrina, which struck in 2005.

The flood defences for the city of New Orleans failed and over 80% of the city was flooded. Despite a massive evacuation, prior to landfall of the hurricane, over 1,500 people were killed.

This event has left a scar on the city that still runs deep and will no doubt take a long time to heal. It is healing and the city has recovered somewhat.

The locals will still talk to you about the effect of Katrina though. It is now as much a part of the identity of this city as any of the sights I was going there to see.

GETTING THERE

Flights

Like most of these stories I was flying from Manchester, England.

We do well for direct flights to the USA, but as a destination New Orleans was a bit too off the beaten track for that.

So my outbound flight took me to JFK airport in New York. There I had a few hours to get through US customs and enjoy a meal in the airport. I went for lobster ravioli. Not what I would consider traditional American fare, but it was good.

The sun was setting as I left New York on an internal flight to New Orleans itself.

A week or so later my reverse trip took me instead from New Orleans to Atlanta, Georgia, where my connecting flight headed home.

I had a quick connection, but where New Orleans and JFK were quite stressful airports, Atlanta’s was a dream. One of the easiest airports I have transited through.

Unlike New York, which I have visited before, Georgia is not counted as one of my US states. I never left the airport, so I’m strict and it doesn’t count!

That direct route to Manchester does mean it is somewhere to consider visiting another time. Maybe it will make that list one day.

Hotel stay

This was of course a last minute adventure, so not part of my original travel budget.

The city break was also only a three night stay, so I didn’t feel the need of a luxury hotel. Clean and comfortable, but in the right location was what I needed.

From everything I had read in my quick pre trip research I knew I would be exploring the French Quarter. That seemed like as good a place to stay as any.

I chose the Best Western Plus, French Quarter Landmark Hotel.

My room was a twin, but like almost every American twin room I have ever stayed in both beds were like double beds.

Just because I’m a solo traveller it doesn’t mean I don’t like to spread out. There’s nothing worse than having two small single beds, when you can only sleep in one.

The rooms were reached by an outside corridor, that overlooked a courtyard and pool.

It was clean, had all the facilities you would want. Breakfast was nice enough. Nothing exceptional, but everything I needed.

Oh and it was walkable to everywhere I wanted to go. Location is everything. I had made a good choice.

Time Zones

I reached my final destination in New Orleans shortly before 11pm. I was in bed by 11.30pm.

There is a 6 hour time difference between the UK and Louisiana, so I got an extra 25% more hours that day. They were all used travelling.

I tend to find that jet lag is not so much of a problem heading west to the USA. I try to stay in the destination time zone and just stay awake for as long as possible on that first long day. I’m all over the place for days when I go the other way home!

My arrival at the hotel was perfectly timed. A reasonable time to go to bed.

Exploring New Orleans could wait until the morning.

MARDI GRAS

One of the main reasons New Orleans is a “go to destination” is the Carnival of Mardi Gras.

Officially Mardi Gras begins on Twelfth Night, January 6^th. It runs all the way to Fat Tuesday. That’s Shrove Tuesday or Pancake Day as we would think of it in the UK.

Apparently the main celebrations are mostly centred around the two weeks closest to Fat Tuesday itself.

I had arrived in New Orleans in the third week of January 2020. The countdown to the celebrations was only just beginning.

Little did anyone realise then that Mardi Gras 2020 would become one of the worst early US super-spreader events of a strange virus that, in January, people were barely even starting to talk about.

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Top Tip: As Easter is a moveable feast, that means the date of Mardi Gras moves each year too. It can be any time from early February to early March. Check dates online.

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Happily oblivious I watched as the hotel put up their reception decorations.

Walking down the side streets of the French Quarter it was soon obvious that the colours of Mardi Gras are gold, purple and green.

They were everywhere!

Houses and buildings generally had a small flash of colour. Door wreaths, or window displays.

One of the more iconic buildings in the French Quarter was layered in baubles and garlands. I’m curious if they had put the same effort into Christmas the month before.

I walked past shops already filled with piles of boxes of “King Cake”, part of the traditional feast. I never actually tried it.

It was quite obvious that New Orleans was getting ready for a great big party.

EXPLORING NEW ORLEANS

The French Quarter

The city was founded by French colonists in 1718. It was named La Nouvelle-Orléans after the Duke of Orléans, who was the Regent of France at the time.

Ownership was ceded to Spain, who in Spanish called it Nuevo Orleans, before returning to France in 1802. Then in 1803 was it sold to the United States of America as part of the Louisiana Purchase, when its name was anglicised to New Orleans.

But those French beginnings still linger in the architecture and feel of this part of the city, so it is unsurprising there is still a French Quarter.

The streets have a sort of grid pattern, albeit not made up of very straight lines, as this quarter borders the river too.

It was fairly quiet during the day. I noticed a lot of shops didn’t open until after 11am. The fact the area comes alive at night might partly explain that.

The monumental centrepiece of this area is St Louis’ Cathedral. In front of it Jackson Square, complete with mounted statue of Major General Andrew Jackson, opens up allowing a full view of the Cathedral from the riverside.

It looks across the railroad tracks that line the riverfront onto the Mississippi River itself.

I went for a look in the cathedral. Cathedrals and churches tend to be amongst the oldest and most prominent buildings of many towns or cities, They are the sort of places I at least pop into for a look around. Sometimes they are very elaborately decorated or filled with historic monuments. This one wasn’t the most impressive cathedral I had ever seen, but it was nice nonetheless.

Beignets

After a morning of walking my researches had told me I had to try another local delicacy. Beignets.

Beignets are like fresh donuts, but square and covered in icing sugar. They are also very popular judging by the queue at Cafe Beignet.

I found myself a table and enjoyed a cup of tea and a sugar rush.

The recommendation was quite correct. Delicious!

TV and Film Locations

“Live and Let Die”, the 1973 James Bond film, which was Roger Moore’s first outing as 007, began in New Orleans. It started with one of their famous musical funeral parades. An intelligence agent meets his untimely end, as the procession continues.

I don’t know the film well enough to have recognised specific locations.

As it happened I did see a real funeral procession.

Sadly, it was for a woman whose smiling photos were carried on a banner at the front of the brightly dressed mourners. It was led by stilt walkers in Mardi Gras colours and completed with a marching band, playing jolly music. What a marvellous way to celebrate a life lived.

My modern knowledge of New Orleans largely comes from watching the TV series “NCIS:New Orleans”.

It has just come to an end, though I’m still catching up on the last few episodes.

At the time of my visit it was still in production and I had read that it was possible to visit the locations of the NCIS HQ and the bar, owned by Scott Bakula’s character, Dwayne Pride.

I didn’t expect there to be a real NCIS HQ on site, though in my imagination it was possible to walk out of the “Tru Tone Bar” into the bustling nightlife of Bourbon Street.

They say you should never meet your heroes. Okay hero is a strong word, but the gateway to NCIS is actually the entrance to a car park.

The exterior of the Tru Tone is a real bar, called the R Bar. But it was in the other side of the French Quarter in a much more residential area. It looked like a nice local pub, but you couldn’t stumble out of it into the bright lights of Bourbon Street.

Bourbon Street

When anyone said New Orleans to me I immediately thought of music. More specifically Jazz and Blues.

I can’t tell you why I thought that. I’m not particularly a fan of either genre of music. But in my imagination there were rows of bars where the sounds of trumpets and a strummed bass would fill the street.

That street is Bourbon Street, sort of!

In reality by day it was quite an ordinary street. But it livened up as the afternoon went on.

By night its the destination to head to for the bright lights of New Orleans.

There are neon lights advertising the shops, food and bars and all the other entertainments on offer.

And there is music everywhere. But its not just Blues and Jazz you hear, though they are there.

There is Country music, Rock music, 80s music. I heard a guy playing covers of Oasis songs, that were born back home in Manchester.

There is no denying Bourbon Street is the place to be for any kind of music.

I can only imagine what a true Mardi Gras party would be like here. Even in January people were throwing beads from the upper floors of bars and clubs to passers by below. All colours, though again purple, gold and green are in evidence. I ended up wearing my own set in these colours. Well, I was there to experience the moment.

The streets were full of revellers.

And I did manage to go and listen to some authentic Blues and Jazz too.

Food

I went for food on Bourbon Street as well.

My stereotypical expectation of fried stuff, with fries, was met. But, in a Sports Bar, with US sports on TV and beer to wash it down. I didn’t wish for anything else.

In fairness I did try, and enjoyed, some of the more traditional Creole food on my second night in town. Gumbo and Jambalaya are favourites here. Being on the river and near the sea, means seafood is popular.

THINGS TO DO IN NEW ORLEANS

Sightseeing is a great way to find your bearings in any city.

I have seen so many things, just walking around with my eyes open.

But of course there are some great things to do, that require a little bit of organisation. Things I had read about, but even then I only booked on the day.

Paddlewheeler on the Mississippi

The Mississippi River is a huge focal point of the city.

Crossing the railroad tracks from the French Quarter it stands before you. It is possible to enjoy a walk along the riverfront.

The mighty Mississippi River with cargo ships and cruise ships. Surrounded by industry. The high rises of the Central Business District. The historic French Quarter. An impressive girder bridge crosses the river too.

Here you also see the paddlewheelers The “City of New Orleans” and the “Natchez”, ply their trade along the river.

I booked for an afternoon’s historic cruise onboard the “Creole Queen”.

The “Creole Queen” is predominantly white, with flashes of yellow. A three level paddlewheel boat, with a very “Southern” design. It’s great red paddle wheel, that gives the vessels their name, is at the back. To look at it takes you back a hundred years. Yet it was only built in 1983.

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Helpful Hint: I hadn’t fixed my plans well enough to book online in advance. I bought my ticket on the day at the ticket kiosk alongside the Creole Queen’s berth.

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The ride took us downriver to Chalmette. We had views as landmarks of the city passed by. An onboard guide, complete with tannoy system, commentated on the things to see and the history of the city as we passed.

Pelicans floated in the water as we paddled by. Nice to see some local wildlife.

I have to say I was just excited to have seen and be sailing on one of the World’s most famous rivers.

Battle of New Orleans

The historic cruise paused at the Chalmette Battlefield and National Cemetery.

Here we got off the boat and were escorted to the visitor’s centre, around the edge of a large field. It was unremarkable, but for the fact that this was the site of the Battle of New Orleans on 8^th January 1815. I had actually missed the anniversary commemorations by a week.

Now at this point I should mention that, as far as I know, I was a lone British tourist among lots and lots Americans.

This is relevant because the Battle of New Orleans was part of the War of 1812 (Yes, I know, in 1815. Its complicated!) between the British, Canadians, their indigenous allies…. and the Americans.

I have come across the War of 1812 on my North American travels before.

In Canada, Toronto (then called York) and Fort George, near Niagara-on-the-Lake, were the scenes of battles. The Americans burned York down.

A year later the British burned down the White House in retaliation, which I heard about in Washington DC.

I knew the outcome of the war is considered “a draw” in many respects, maybe even a British win. Again its complicated. Worth a read if you like history.

The British may not have lost the war, but they did lose the Battle of New Orleans.

Apparently the city was bravely defended by outnumbered and less experienced troops, under the command of Major General Andrew Jackson. The man with the statue outside the Cathedral. And they stopped the British invasion of the city.

It happened here. On this battlefield.

So I kept my accent to myself and learned some history where it happened. The guides told us this was the last major battle of the war, among other war stories.

To be honest its old history. I found it very interesting, regardless of winners and losers.

And then the Creole Queen’s whistle blew to call us all aboard and we sailed back upriver.

Voodoo

I suppose its another bit of New Orleans culture that has permeated into my subconscious, that I know they like their “spirituality”.

One of the first buildings I saw on day one had a for sale sign which put “Not Haunted” second only to having parking.

Then of course there is Voodoo. I’m not much of a horror fan, which is my first thought when this is mentioned. Indeed the city has plenty of voodoo shops that play on it. I may have had a wander around one or two.

But voodoo is not really all about black magic and voodoo dolls.

It is a form of religion that merged the rituals of African slaves, brought to Louisiana, with those the local Catholics. Their belief is that nature, ancestors and spirits affect our daily lives.

Cemetery Walking Tour

A friend, who had visited New Orleans as one destination on a road trip across the Southern USA, recommended this next one to me. He insisted it was one of the most interesting things they had done.

I took the recommendation and signed up for the Cemetery Walking Tour with Haunted History Tours. One of several tours they offer in the city.

We set off from the French Quarter at a leisurely pace. Every so often we stopped to be told about some site or other.

Over the course of the tour the history of the city was told. With a twist. It was all about how they live and, more pertinently, how they die.

We reached our main destination, the St Louis No.1 Cemetery. The oldest in New Orleans.

This historic cemetery is a marvel of architecture as much as anything else. A genuine city of the dead.

There are statues and sculptures. Huge communal tombs and small family ones.

We learned that the tombs are often reused by generations of families. When a person is buried their entombed body essentially decomposes in the Louisiana heat. Hopefully by the time the next generation’s turn comes around they are nothing but bones. Those remain in the tomb as the new occupant is added.

Couples might opt for a twin level tomb. Over time family remains are mingled together. Okay a bit graphic, but a very organic way to depart this life.

Among many historic tombs we visited that of the most famous Voodoo Queen, Marie Laveau, and her family.

A striking pyramid has been built by the actor Nicholas Cage, ready for when his time comes.

This was every bit as fascinating a tour as I was promised it would be.

FAREWELL NEW ORLEANS

My time in New Orleans had come to an end and it was time to sail on to my next destination.

For the cruise fans reading, the cruise terminal is slightly upriver, in the Central Business District, which adjoins the French Quarter.

It was an easy taxi ride.

As I left the city I reflected that I had thoroughly enjoyed my visit. I had packed a lot into my time, but it felt like two days was long enough for a single visit.

The prospect of a return visit one day, to see the Mardi Gras in full flow, is definitely enticing. My friend’s Southern road trip sounded awesome, so maybe I’ll do that and revisit New Orleans on the way. I still have 40 states left to visit after all.

New Orleans was everything I wanted it to be. I enjoyed the history and culture. Immersed myself in music. Tried the food. Drank some American beer. Took pleasure from seeing a bit more of the USA.

For a spontaneous trip I was very glad I went.